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I rode a Harley-Davidson Sportster S 1250 from northern Europe down to Lake Faak for European Bike Week to find out whether Harley’s modern reinterpretation still feels like a true Harley. The ten-day trip combined long motorway runs, mountain passes and festival crowds — and the bike had to prove itself in all of them.
Setting out in difficult weather
The trip began at the Eurotunnel on one of the wettest days of the season. Visibility and pace were badly affected by rain, and kit packed for summer failed to keep us dry.
I linked up with a friend on a Yamaha FJR1300 and we made a tactical first-night stop in Épernay after calling in at the old Reims circuit. Progress was slower than planned, but we kept moving toward the Alps over the next two days.
A 4K tri-laser projector for close-to-wall use delivers high brightness and quick response
A day that altered the course of events
How the Sportster handled the miles
Once the motorway hours accumulated, the bike settled into a reliable groove. With a backpack and a small tail pack, the Revolution Max engine pulled strongly and the riding position became comfortable for long stretches.
The Sportster’s weak point was obvious: an 11.8-litre tank. In practical terms that translated to roughly 135 miles between fills at steady speeds, provided I stood the bike upright and “burped” a little extra fuel into the tank at the pump. Pushing harder cut economy fast, and frequent stops became part of the routine.
Those extra refuelling breaks slowed the schedule, but we perfected a quick-stop routine — fuel, espresso, stretch — and managed to keep good daily mileage despite the tank’s limits.
European Bike Week: culture and custom builds
We arrived at European Bike Week as the rain eased, which made it easier to take in the event without fighting the biggest crowds. The Harley-Davidson tent hosted the Creators Custom Clash, where Italian builder Jack NBC won with a Breakout inspired by American football.
Between the show stands and food stalls — Argentinian BBQ proved indispensable that evening — we stripped the bike back at our Airbnb to ride lighter into the surrounding mountains.
Alpine roads, Slovenia and three countries in a day
Riding the Nockalmstrasse was a welcome change from long freeway sections: 34 km of flowing turns through the Carinthian mountains that showcased what the Sportster could do when freed of luggage. It wasn’t a razor-sharp canyon bike, but the midrange shove and exhaust note made exits from the bends entertaining.
Another day took us south from Villach into Slovenia and into Triglav National Park. The old Russian Road felt especially memorable — narrow, scenic and characterful — and cutting west brought us back through the top corner of Italy. In one day we sampled Austria, Slovenia and Italy.
The bike could be unsettled over cobbles and in the tightest turns, yet hauling it through those landscapes had its own appeal. Riding lighter made a noticeable difference in handling and enjoyment.
The scenic return via Grossglockner
Rather than blast up the autobahn, we looped back through the Alps and tackled the Grossglockner, Austria’s high mountain road. The 48 km run offered big views, cooler air and a convenient lunch stop with a view for photos.
From Fügen we took winding secondary roads until the inevitable northbound motorway miles to Calais. The final day — Metz to Calais and then across to Wiltshire — was a long haul of toll booths, cruise control and tiring but satisfying finishing miles.
Did the Sportster S pass the test?
By the end of the trip the answer was clear: yes. The Sportster S was not the most comfortable or the longest-range tourer, but it carried rider and kit across countries, handled mountain passes and arrived at European Bike Week without mechanical complaint.
It required compromises — frequent fuel stops, an acceptance of its geometry on tight tarmac — but it delivered character and capability in equal measure. For this ride, it proved itself Harley enough.
Practical notes and trip figures
One practical tip: check the oil with the bike upright. If it isn’t level, oil can leak from the filler when opened.
- Miles this month: 2821 miles
- MPG this month: 56 mpg
- Costs this month: £423.69 (fuel)
- Miles to next service: 2560 miles (minor)
